I have been asked several times to describe my ‘basing’ method. Before starting, I would like to acknowledge the fact that although the final mix of methods is mine, I have borrowed heavily from the advise of others, among whom Clarence Harrison of Quindia Studios deserves special mention! Thanks again Clarence!

Materials

The bases are from Litko; intermediate depth with attached magnets. Ballast is from Woodland Scenics; Dark Brown (medium). Finally, the paints are Coat D’Arms (Negro) for the ‘goo’, and  Vallejo Model Color (a) Desert Sand, (b) Ochre Brown, and (c)Clear Sand, for the dry-brushing. The static grass is from Jarvis, but any other would do as the grass is being dry-brushed at the end!

STEP 1. Preparation

I stick and trim the magnets because they are larger than the bases (although they are marketed as being of equal sizes). I glue the figures using superglue (gives better results in my opinion over wood glue). At this time, I also glue any scenic material, such as tufts, stones, etc. I let the bases dry for at least 12 hours.

STEP 2. Ballast

I prepare the so called ‘goo’. It is composed of 50% white wood glue, 25% Negro paint, and 25% water. The exact composition is not important, as long as the end product dark and liquid enough to spread around in a thick layer without running off if you tip the base. I apply this ‘goo’ liberally everywhere, except on the metallic base of the figure. Then, I dip the base in the ballast, I shake slightly and leave to dry for at least 6 hours.

STEP 3. Static Grass

Here I prepare a more liquid ‘goo’, perhaps with 25% glue, 25% Desert Sand, and 50% water. The idea is that this ‘goo’ is thick enough so that it is not transparent when applied, but also runny enough to seep through the ballast. Now, I cover fully the metallic base and extend this to irregular shapes around the stand. The grass always covers more ground than the applied ‘goo’ so restrain is required! I then ‘shower’ the base with static grass and let it dry in heaps for at least 12 hours. This is the most critical step in the whole ‘letting dry’ process.

STEP 4. Dry-Brushing

I start by clearing the edges with a knife from any stuck ballast and grass. Then, I dry-brush about 80% of the grass with Ochre Brown to give it a reddish hue (this trick I got from Kevin Dallimore - I believe!) I don’t press the brush too much, so that the roots of the grass appear a bit green; along with the non-drybrushed grass this gives a blend of colors. Then, I dry-brush 100% the ballast with Desert Sand, being heavy handed here as the ballast has some depth of its own. At this time, I dry-brush the edges of the bases (if the customer wants, as in the pictures). If the ‘goo’ is not completely dry, ballast will start dislodging during dry-brushing! I finish with irregular ‘touches’ of Clear Sand (about 1/3 of total surface), applied everywhere: grass, ballast, edges.

STEP 5. Tidying Up

I go back and evaluate the whole thing. I may dry-brush back to intermediate color certain areas where I overdid the final highlights, or apply extra highlights, or cover up unmasked areas of the base, etc. I will then paint with Negro the undersides of the bases (if no magnets are used as in some commissions) and the edges of bases (for my own collection and for some customers, who don’t want them dry-brushed). Finally, I will examine legs and feet to repair any accidental dry brushing or nicks of paint. This is followed by a a gentle roughing up of the base with a hog-bristle brush (to remove any loose material). Then, the figures are dusted with a soft brush, and if they are glossed (mine!), they receive a final cleaning with a jewelry cloth before being placed in the display case - otherwise, they are ready to be packed and go!

You can download a PDF version of this page by clicking here...